Heater element
Elements wear out with age and scale. A failing element can also trip the RCD.
Signs: the pump runs and the water moves, but it never gets warmer.
It isn’t always the heater. A blocked filter, a sticking flow switch, a failing sensor or a tired pump can all leave you with a cold tub. We test each part in turn, so you only pay for the part that has actually failed.
We’re based in Camborne, covering Mid and West Cornwall, from Bodmin and Newquay to Penzance and everywhere in between.
Most of these take a few minutes and need no tools. Switch off at the isolator before you take a filter out.
Still cold? Tell the troubleshooter what the display says. It’ll walk you through the safe checks.
Ask the troubleshooterThese are the faults we find most often. Some are quick to put right; others, such as a control board, cost more. We won’t know which until we’ve tested it.
Elements wear out with age and scale. A failing element can also trip the RCD.
Signs: the pump runs and the water moves, but it never gets warmer.
If a sensor reads wrongly, the control pack can switch the heater off too early, or not switch it on at all.
Signs: the display doesn’t match the water, or a sensor or high-limit code.
The heater only runs when the pack can see water flowing. A sticking or failed switch stops it, even when the flow is fine.
Signs: a flow code with clean filters and plenty of water.
The pump that moves water through the heater can slow down, seize or stop. On some tubs, it’s the main pump on low speed.
Signs: a hum or silence from the pump, weak flow, flow codes.
Restricted flow is a common cause, and one you can often clear yourself.
Signs: it started after a refill, or the filters are overdue a clean.
A relay on the board can stop switching the heater on, or a fuse on the board can blow.
Signs: everything else works, but the heater never comes on.
If it heats but can’t hold the temperature, look at the cover first, then the insulation in the cabinet.
Signs: warm in the evening, noticeably cooler by morning.
Flow, overheat and sensor codes are the usual signs. The names vary between control systems, so check your own in our guides.
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| FLO, FL, LF | A flow problem: the system can’t see enough water moving through the heater. | Clean the filters, check the water level and open the jets and valves. |
| dr | On Balboa systems: not enough water in the heater, or air in the system. The heater stays off until it clears. | Top up, clean the filters and clear any airlock. |
| OH, OHH, HL | Overheat or high limit: the water or the heater has got too hot, so the system has shut down. | Don’t get in. Take the cover off and let it cool. If it keeps coming back, ring us. |
| SN, Prr | A fault with a temperature sensor or probe. | This one needs an engineer. |
We work through the heating circuit in order, testing rather than guessing, so you don’t pay for parts you didn’t need.
If a part has to be ordered, we come back to fit it. Parts availability varies by make and model, and for some older or less common tubs, a part may no longer be made. If that’s the case, we’ll tell you straight away.

From 47 reviews on Google
“John is very friendly and knowledgeable.
He sorted out our hot tub which had stopped heating and had a leak, promptly and he is reasonably priced.
I will always call on John for any future problems. I can highly recommend him”
“Called Jon last minute as the hot tub stopped working and Jon messaged straight away to say he was on a job and would get back to us asap and he did, called this evening and was so so helpful!! Explained to my husband about things he can check himself and he was so honest to explain that it might be something we can fix before he comes out. If the problem can't be solved we will 100% call Jon out to help us, thanks Jon! This is what customer service should be like everywhere!”
“Jon an absolute legend, very friendly, came out diagnosed the issue went away ordered the part came back fixed it tested it fixed another problem that came up after testing again and all for a very reasonable price. Will use him again and again 🌟
Paul from porth / newquay”
You pay for our time and any parts. There are no surprises: we tell you what’s needed before we fit anything.

The usual causes are a blocked filter, low water or an airlock, which all stop the water flowing through the heater. If those are fine, it’s often the heater element, a sensor, the flow or pressure switch, the pump or the control board. We test each one to find which.
If the pumps are running and nothing is tripping, yes, with the cover on. Moving water is much less likely to freeze in a cold snap. If it shows a code for overheating or keeps tripping, switch it off at the isolator.
A tub that has been refilled can take most of a day to come back up to temperature, depending on the tub, the weather and the cover. If it’s still cold after a few hours, the heater, a sensor or the pump needs testing.
It can be. A dirty filter, a weak pump or a failing element can all slow it down. Clean the filters first, and if it’s still slow, give us a ring.
Often, yes. A heater element that has broken down can trip the RCD as soon as it switches on. Don’t keep resetting it. See our page on tripping the electrics.
We work on most makes, including Hot Spring, Hydropool, Canadian Spa, Jacuzzi, Arctic Spa, Caldera, Roto Spa and Beachcomber, and on Balboa, Gecko and SpaNet control systems. Parts availability varies by make, so tell us what you’ve got when you ring.
Let us know the make, any code on the panel and how long it has been cold, and we’ll get back to you with a date.
If your tub is sunk into decking or the ground, or set against a wall, it helps to mention it when you book. If you’re not sure, a photo is fine.
We’re based in Camborne, covering Mid and West Cornwall, from Bodmin and Newquay to Penzance and everywhere in between. Towns we cover include:
Somewhere else in Cornwall? Just ask. Every area we cover